SCAT vs. SCEET?
- Thread starter msamac
- Start date
Rellihan
Touring the Galaxy
Use the SCEET wherever you can. The only place it doesn't work well is where very tight turns are needed. In those situations you have to use either CEET or molded ducts, and the latter are very hard to find. The SCEET will hold up much longer than the CAT, SCAT, or CEET.
If you are talking about a short alternator cooling duct that is about 1" by 10", call Jon Kinney at Custom Ducts. Tell him you need one like the ones he made for Mike Rellihan. It will be a much higher quality SCEET, and will have molded cuffs on both ends. It will probably last the life of your engine, and won't be damaged by alternator R&R, and will be easier to reinstall.
If you are talking about a short alternator cooling duct that is about 1" by 10", call Jon Kinney at Custom Ducts. Tell him you need one like the ones he made for Mike Rellihan. It will be a much higher quality SCEET, and will have molded cuffs on both ends. It will probably last the life of your engine, and won't be damaged by alternator R&R, and will be easier to reinstall.
Rellihan
Touring the Galaxy
A search on BAC using custom ducts brings up their link. So does a look at 'Web links' or 'Product Discounts'. Here it is again:
Custom Ducts
Custom Ducts
Mike,
I'm still learnin' here. I looked for a link on Google and Yahoo... nothing! I have to learn to search here first, I'm getting better. I think I will let them know they would get more business if they showed up on internet searches. You can pay companies to give you enough hits to show up on Google and Yahoo, and I do not think it costs that much.
Anyway, those ducts look very cool. I'll call 'em tomorow.
Thank you.
Mike
I'm still learnin' here. I looked for a link on Google and Yahoo... nothing! I have to learn to search here first, I'm getting better. I think I will let them know they would get more business if they showed up on internet searches. You can pay companies to give you enough hits to show up on Google and Yahoo, and I do not think it costs that much.
Anyway, those ducts look very cool. I'll call 'em tomorow.
Thank you.
Mike
Well Mike, I'm a computer scientist by profession, but now I'm lookin' stupid. I did the search again just now, and sure enough, it is the #1 hit! I swear it didn't show up last night.
Now I don't recall the length of the tubing I need, and I didn't measure it. Do you happen to know what length I should order? Jon thought yours was 19", but mine is more like 15"? Should I go with a few more inches? I cannot get out to the airport today, but if I give him the length, he will have it in the mail in the morning.
BTW - He has the 132" 1-1/4 inch tubing for our cabin air ducts for less than $100. What a deal, and what a find!
Thank you.
Mike
Now I don't recall the length of the tubing I need, and I didn't measure it. Do you happen to know what length I should order? Jon thought yours was 19", but mine is more like 15"? Should I go with a few more inches? I cannot get out to the airport today, but if I give him the length, he will have it in the mail in the morning.
BTW - He has the 132" 1-1/4 inch tubing for our cabin air ducts for less than $100. What a deal, and what a find!
Thank you.
Mike
Okay guys n' gals I finally finished the job. You can see Mike Rellihan's hand all over this job from all the way across the country. I bought the Plane Power alternator, and the 1" X 10" duct from Custom Ducts both suggested by Mike. The engineering, fit, and finish were absolutely superior to the orignal crap that was in the airplane. What a beautiful final product, and it fixed the problem. I had just refreshed the charge in my batteries at 2 amps, but they always need a little charge after starting, and I read excellent charge until the needle went back down in a minute or two.
Here are a couple of photos. I don't know how, or if I can post in the "Maintenance" section of our photos, but if one of the directors want more photos, I took a pretty good photo essay of the project.
Mike
Here are a couple of photos. I don't know how, or if I can post in the "Maintenance" section of our photos, but if one of the directors want more photos, I took a pretty good photo essay of the project.
Mike
Here are a couple more photos. I was having a bad time getting my bottom cowl back on, and then I figured out that I could use my bench seat, and a few cable ties. This worked really well if you need an extra set of hands, the cable ties, and the seat worked well as those extra hands.
If this has been posted, sorry, but I don't recall seeing it anywhere else. I figure I cannot be the only person to struggle with my cowling while working by myself. The cable ties give you enough play to get the cowl over the exhaust stack, and just pull it up snug. You snug the cable ties as you go.
Mike
If this has been posted, sorry, but I don't recall seeing it anywhere else. I figure I cannot be the only person to struggle with my cowling while working by myself. The cable ties give you enough play to get the cowl over the exhaust stack, and just pull it up snug. You snug the cable ties as you go.
Mike
danielkirby
Flight Levels
I had all the ductwork in my sierra replaced with duct from custom ducts, and am very pleased. Dave, at the repair station that installed them said they always cut our own duct, have for 30 yrs. so why order out? After he got them, he understood and said they were the best he'd ever seen.
Dan
Dan
paulwerbin
Headed to Andromeda
In (Finally) replacing my ducts I found that some of the custom 1.25 in. ducts were too long for my Plane and also that there was not allowance for the "Y" that feeds heat to the 3rd row seats. Since the fittings on the end are larger (1.5 in.) than the body diameter cutting did not seem to be the answer. BUT... a quick call to John at custom ducts gave the solution! if you need to shorten the ducts they can be cut at a convenient location and "screwed" together. He recommended using a little alcohol to clean the ducts and a little red silicone from the NAPA store to seal it up.
And to make the "Y" work I can simply cut were needed and add 2 short pieces with an end fitting that will connect to the plastic 1.5 in. Y. Sure beats pulling it out and starting over!
And to make the "Y" work I can simply cut were needed and add 2 short pieces with an end fitting that will connect to the plastic 1.5 in. Y. Sure beats pulling it out and starting over!
N6008L
Touring the Galaxy
The duct to the alternator is interesting. I do not recall having the small round opening in the cowl, the one shown in the picture next to the intake for the duct that runs to the muffler shroud. Mine is a '78, and everything else in the picture looks the same as mine.
I know that I don't have any duct running to the alternator. If I have to replace my alternator, and I use the Plane Power model, do I have to run an air duct do the back of the alternator, or is the airflow from the front of the engine enough?
Les
I know that I don't have any duct running to the alternator. If I have to replace my alternator, and I use the Plane Power model, do I have to run an air duct do the back of the alternator, or is the airflow from the front of the engine enough?
Les
Rellihan
Touring the Galaxy
Most of the 28V planes came with the alternator cooling duct nipple/duct flange riveted on the face of the engine baffling, on the front RH side. Frankly, I cannot recall whether it was also the norm for the later 14V planes that have the later Prestolite alternator (having the same form-factor as the 28V units).
Regardless, if you purchase the Plane Power unit, and your model comes with the alternator cooling duct adapter on the back of the alternator, it is very simple to add the duct inlet. Spruce sells inexpensive 1" duct flanges. You just cut the hole in the baffle and rivet the flange to the baffle. I also seem to recall that it is possible to simply tie-wrap the duct into a gap at the junction of the horizontal baffle and wrap-over baffle, as a temporary measure, if you need locally unavailable help to install the duct flange. I would not run the PP alternator without the cooling duct. It is a compact high-output unit, and needs the ducted cooling air.
Regardless, if you purchase the Plane Power unit, and your model comes with the alternator cooling duct adapter on the back of the alternator, it is very simple to add the duct inlet. Spruce sells inexpensive 1" duct flanges. You just cut the hole in the baffle and rivet the flange to the baffle. I also seem to recall that it is possible to simply tie-wrap the duct into a gap at the junction of the horizontal baffle and wrap-over baffle, as a temporary measure, if you need locally unavailable help to install the duct flange. I would not run the PP alternator without the cooling duct. It is a compact high-output unit, and needs the ducted cooling air.
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